Years ago, when I surfed, I was seduced by an empty ocean and paddled out to surf on water that was rowdy, powerful, and dangerous. After fighting to get out of the crash zone,
I used to freak out. I remember sailing on a reservoir in Colorado as a kid. The boat capsized and all of my family members were bobbing in the lake in yellow and orange life jackets.
I am a huge fan of change and of learning new things. The consequence of this is that I am not very good at all of the things. There is so much research and buzz about doing something over and over and over and over and over to master, to perfect, to become excellent.